Well i'm rebuilding the motor for my car. Apparently the rings went out on cylinder 1 and 2 and are no longer building compression. Anything specific you'd all recommend I do while the motor is out. Buddy was saying something about apr head bolts. Anything you'd recommend please include a link to the item so I can look at it. Don't plan on doing anything major to the motor here but want to make sure I replace the weak points now so i don't have to later.

Whats your budget look like?

I want decent parts as cheap as possible. I got 2 quotes today on a complete rebuild and i'm looking at 1150 to have a machine shop tear the block down, hone and bore it if the cylinder walls are scorned. Basically just trying to get a general idea as I still have to check if the headgasket is blown or not. Quite possible its just a headgasket but won't know till I pull the head off and inspect the rest of the motor. Just want to prepare for the worst.

get a 2.5 stroker kit from here. http://www.needhp.com/index.php?main_pa ... 4c354ca421

I just ordered one

Need a link to a good headgasket and arp head bolts. Need a gasket that will work with the head bolts and not blow out at 25psi. Need it tonight if possible.

use the felpro 1035

use the ARP head studs (non undercut)

Summit has both

Ok i've got the felpro 1035 gasket and the arp head studs in the car now. Went through the order of torquing the studs, did 40, 80, 120 ft-tor on the studs. That gasket plus those studs will allow a max of how much boost? Also on a stock 88 t-bird motor whats gonna be the next thing to give way on me?

ive ran 30 psi on that setup.


make sure the tune is spot on before you crank it up hard..

Well since the install of the new parts and test drives on it i'm about to give up on this fuckin thing. Got it running yesterday but ran into more problems. With the narrowband o2 sensor before it stayed pegged on rich meaning I wasn't running lean. Now when I drive it at idle its lean, but when I get on it the needle bounces from lean to rich none stop making me think the car is lean. I did a test on the fuel system to check pressure and shit. I've got 43psi on the fuel rail with the car running and vacuum diaphram disconnected from the intake. With it plugged in its about 36 psi at idle. One thing we did see is with the BBK afpr when you flip the key to the on position and the pump primes fuel pressure doesn't rise at all. Flip it 3 times back to back basically waiting till the pump turns off and do it again we got the line up to 40 psi but within 2 seconds of that pump turning off we lose all pressure. Are the afpr supposed to do this or are they supposed to have a slow leak by over time. Trying to get all the problems worked out on this. Other problem we're currently seeing is when the cars cold and finally started it idles fine, once the car heats up sometime the vacuum will start bouncing around 20 to 10 to 15 to 20 back to 15 till it steadies out or the car dies. The car also just straight up died on us today without having the vacuum flicker around. I'm running out of ideas here. Any nudges in the right direction would be helpful and appreciated guys.

sounds like a bad fuel pump

its either the fuel pump or afpr. When we kink the return line from the fuel rail we maintain pressure for at least 15-20 seconds instead of like 2. Think i'm just gonna go ahead and replace the afpr and see if it fixes it. If not i'm gonna have to drive the car till its out of gas basically then drop the tank again.... uggg oh well is there a way to test just the afpr to see if the leak down on it isn't working correctly?